Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Rifle Mountain Park with Jon Cardwell and Chelsea Rude

We stop in Rifle Mountain Park for some hard, limestone sport climbing for a couple of days. When I go to Rifle I feel like the weakest climber in the world. Typically I am the weakest climber I meet there. It's incredibly humbling.

"I'm just working this 5.13c, it should go down pretty easily."

"I just did all the moves on my first 5.14!"

"Can you get some shots of me on the 5.14 I just got the first ascent of?"

I didn't climb much. I mostly hung uncomfortably from my harness and snapped photos while I lost all feeling in my legs. I shot Sarah and Chelsea Rude working Apocalypse '91 (5.13b).


KNEEBARS! 


 
Try Hard Tongue

Chelsea climbing on a 5.14a, Bride of Frankenstein I think? 



Jon Cardwell was working on Planet Garbage, a new link up that Matt Hong had gotten the first ascent of a couple weeks earlier. Jimmy Webb had broken off a huge hold since Hong's send making the route seem impossible. But Jon tried a huge dyno past the broken hold off of a terrible looking sloper pinch. After a few attempts Jon stuck the move and declared that the route still goes. Jon eventually sent the route a couple weeks later.
Jon Cardwell holding on after a massive dyno on Planet Garbage, 5.14c? 
 I think I have climbed more trees while shooting with Jon and Chelsea than anywhere else. I climbed a skinny, unstable tree to secure a flash near the top. Gorillapods work great for this.

A couple weeks before Jon had gotten the first ascent on Nastalgie (5.14) in the Wasteland, and asked me to get some shots of him on it. 




Jon sticking the crux move of Nastalgie, 5.14

It was a great weekend in Rifle, but after two and half weeks on the road I was ready to return to Boulder. Love having a home I'm excited to return to. 

Quick free solo of the 2nd Flatiron.

Jumping in Twin Falls

After my road trip with Matt, Keith and Dan concluded in Salt Lake City, Utah, I jumped in a messy, "well lived in," forest green Ford Explorer and headed back to Idaho with BASE Jumper and climber, Sarah Watson.


We spent Sunday recovering from Outdoor Retailer by putting up a waterline at Pillar Falls on the Snake River with Vincent Faires. We hopped on Kathy's pontoon boat with her parents and she dropped us off at the falls. Her mom was .... precious.  Kathy Peterson is the Angel of Twin Falls, ferrying jumpers from the landing zone to the boat docks, shortening the time between jumps.




Sarah and Vincent work their magic in putting up the slackline on previously established bolts that spanned a pool carved into the rock by the river. The landing in the green water was generally deeper than I cared to touch, but a few larger boulders made sure I paid attention where I entered the water. I am not good at slacklining and taking the first steps onto the line over the rock edges of the pool was pretty unnerving. 

Vincent made the first crossing. 

Sarah losing control


Pillar Falls is beautiful. 





Idaho is incredibly beautiful and undervalued. I had never really thought of Idaho as a destination, but it is completely worth a trip!


BASE Jumping! 
It should be noted that BASE Jumping is very difficult to shoot.  I hadn't thought about how little time I would actually have to shoot my subject before they were out of frame. It is definitely not like shooting climbing where I have several minutes to compose, light, and capture the perfect image. With BASE, I basically have one shot per jump, even shooting in burst mode.

Also, stepping over the railing of the bridge, almost 500 feet above the water, is terrifying, even knowing that I'm fully attached by webbing that can hold a suspended truck. I don't have a parachute, like my subjects, if something went wrong.

Sarah and I pull into the Welcome center parking lot around 10 am. Several other jumpers are preparing their packs in the grass next to the Perrine Memorial Bridge. They tend to jump in groups and wait around for each other. There's definitely something to be said about camaraderie.

Sarah, having recovered from a serious foot injury, hadn't jumped in 5 months and was a bit nervous. But she had friends and familiar faces around to encourage her. Over the next several days and multiple jumps, she regained her confidence
Sean Morey pulls a triple gainer off the 486ft tall bridge over the Snake River. 

Hayley Ashburn takes the leap off the rail.  

Hayley prepares her chute for her next jump. 

With an unpacked chute Hayley Ashburn walks out onto the bridge, preparing to do a rollover, a front flip over your chute draped below 

Sarah prepares to jump of the Perrine Memorial Bridge. 

The Skittle, as Hayley refers to her chute. 

Sarah carefully packing her chute for her next jump. 

The view from the Landing Zone. 

Sarah taking off


There was a near full moon on an almost perfectly clear night. I talked Sarah and her friend Nick Burden into jumping in the moonlight. I set up a couple flashes on the bridge and hoped I got a good shot in the split second. I only got once chance.

The next morning we woke up early to get a shot at sunrise. We were a little slower than we anticipated. There were a few other jumpers ready to go.

John Dobbins jumps with his pilot shoot ready to throw. 

A jumper who was part of a class prepares to jump. 


Climbing in Idaho's Lava Tubes
Sarah wanted to do something other than jump and we'd met a couple of young local kids that showed us a climbing area just off the river. They talked about another area 45 minutes away that was steep sport climbing. We couldn't pass up checking it out.

The Shoshone Lava Tubes are pretty unique. From the road, all you can see for miles around is upheaved volcanic rock tumultuously covering the flat earth. The shadows of mountains loom in the background, more where you would expect to find climbing. The local kid tells us to park about 100 yards off the road, and we walk for another 100 yards south, parallel with the road. You can't see it till you're standing above the giant hole. The tubes had collapsed leaving a natural arch with incredibly featured rock.

We did several fun, short, juggy routes, including a 5.12a that I flashed (woo!) before jumping on the grand route, a  powerful 12c that traverses the bottom edge of the arch.


Sarah catching an inverted rest. Heel hooks abound. 

Sarah approaches the anchors. 
Definitely a unique climbing spot with some great climbs. Unless you knew exactly where you were going it would be extremely difficult to find.

The Last Chance
We had one more chance to get a great shot. Shooting had proved harder than I expected, and I was determined to get a shot I was psyched on.  We got to the bridge before sunrise this time, I set up my flashes and knew I had one chance for this shot. I pulled over the railing and got as comfortable as one can get in a minimal climbing harness hanging 500 feet in the air. Sarah asked, "Are you ready? 3. 2. 1. See ya!!!" I pressed the shutter only once.

The sun crested the horizon, my lights flashed, and Sarah disappeared beneath her opened chute. And then silence, except for the wind blowing gently past me and semis driving over the bridge, causing me to bounce in slow reverberations.

I climbed back over the rail and waited for Sarah to make the trek out of the canyon, since Kathy was not out yet.



Sarah wanted to do one more jump before we drove back to Colorado. The morning light was hazy and diffused. Sarah was determined to jump in good style for the photo. "Just repeat to myself, bend my legs, bend my legs, bend my legs!"


John dropping a bit out of position
John Dobbins had never jumped off the rail of the bridge before. He'd always jumped, holding onto the rail behind him. In this position you are already leaning forward which puts you in the right position to jump. From the top of the rail you have to lean forward before jumping to get into the correct position. John jumped, and I started laughing immediately. It looked like he'd done a pencil dive like a 13 yr old girl at a pool party. It looked so incredibly unnatural. But he pulled his chute without a hitch.

CJ Crucial takes her turn. 

Sean Morey lays it out in front of me in a single gainer. He'd been doing tucks every time he jumped and I was surprised to see him looking me in the eye as he dropped in front of me. 
We take off after her second jump and head towards Rifle Mountain Park, outside Rifle, CO.

The trip continues for a few more days! It's been an awesome trip, but I'm getting antsy to get back to Boulder.

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Climbing Road Trip: Plan B is for Better!

People regularly ask me, "Do you have any trips planned?", and for most of this year that question depressed me. I've been having a great year and have been getting out climbing a lot, but I also want a bigger adventure.

At a poker game with some buddies in Denver, Matt Lloyd asked me if I wanted to join him on an alpine climbing adventure in and around Banff in Canada. I'd been looking for this kind of opportunity and immediately said yes.

Four of us, two "old farts" and two young guns, piled into Keith North's Toyota Four Runner in the early evening in August. It was a tight fit with all of our gear, but I was thankful we decided to take the SUV over a Subaru sedan with a canvas roof bag. I'm pretty certain we wouldn't have fit.

We drive through the night to Buffalo, WY and find our way through obscure country roads to the Piney Creek Canyon parking lot around 3 am. We sleep all pile on a tarp and try to sleep beneath the bright starry night sky.

Typical Matt Lloyd, like a kid missing his Ritalin. 


We found spectacular limestone akin to Ten Sleep, but with very little development. There's so much unclimbed rock there!

Matt Lloyd gets the send of Over Forty, a stout 5.12c. 

All the rock on the opposite side of the river is undeveloped; so much potential! 

Keith North getting the send. 
After a few hours playing on the fantastic limestone we pile back into the truck and make our way to the Canadian border.

Plan B
"Please park the car and come inside. A border agent will let you know the details."

After driving almost 900 miles in the last 24 hours we were psyched to get into Canada. It was only 5 more hours to Canmore. Sitting in the waiting area we got the news. "You're being denied entry into Canada." I didn't even know that was an option, I thought they let everyone in. We wasted three hours waiting at the border.

After the news sunk in we scrambled to salvage the trip. Matt got on the phone and started calling anyone he knew that had beta in Idaho and Eastern Washington. We talked about going to the Cascades. It seemed feasible until we realized how much further it was to the climbing. We were tired and upset. We got a hotel for the night in Conrad, MT and tried to piece together a plan.

The original plan was to climb a couple different routes on Mt Temple in the Canadian Rockies then make our way to Salt Lake City, UT for the Outdoor Retailer Trade show. Now we had a week to fill with unknowns.

Fifty miles west of Conrad, mountains form the eastern border of Glacier National Park. The wonderful tool that is MountainProject.com told us there was climbing there. Not just climbing, but fantastic sport climbing on 600ft tall vertical-to-overhanging limestone cliffs!



Few have heard of Blackleaf Canyon, but those who have know the quality of this hidden gem. After getting lost trying to find the road into the canyon (with the canyon in full view) we finally made it to the base of the climbs. Only carrying a sport rack up the 15 minute approach, we're quite energized and ready to climb. 

Matt, Dan and Keith eying "Bodisattva" a 5 pitch 5.12"a/13a"
Keith North climbing through the 5.10 crux of pitch 2

Keith enjoying jugs on pitch 3, 300+ feet off the deck. 

Dan fought his way up pitch 4, a slab 5.11 with very tricky, balancy, thin moves. We made fun of the noises he made until we got on it. Then there was pitch 5. The description reads: "P:5 (5.12+) didn't try this pitch. It heads up a very slick looking shield." Keith tried it, and really it looked impossible. 


Some weather looked like it might come in and we wanted to get on the road to Idaho. So despite having climbed only one route and walking past so many tempting lines in this amazing canyon we get back in the 4Runner and drive towards Missoula. 

Somewhere in Western Montana

The Elephant Perch
We wake up in our tents somewhere in Idaho and drive into the Sawtooth Range. The drive from Montana is spectacular. I never realized how beautiful Idaho is - it's not one I think about as wild and mountainous. The Sawtooths are as described: Jagged, rocky peaks jutting into the sky. Matt kept saying they should be called the Sharktooths. 

We take a boat across Redfish Lake that cuts 6 miles off our hike. Yea, I'm a lazy hiker. I'll take it. 


It's a beautiful, if not a little bit too warm, day so we jump into the crystal clear water before embarking on our epic three mile hike.



For two miles the trail is pretty easy, then you cross a log bridge.

Matt balancing his way across the unstable log bridge.
The last mile is UP! A test of your fitness. But the beauty of the Elephant Perch and Saddleback Lakes make you forget the hike as soon as you see them.

A 23 photo mega panorama of the Saddleback Lake and the Elephant Perch, including our amazing campsite. Natively this image is 60 inches by 60 inches!




We wake up before sunrise to get on the route, Astro Elephant, to beat any other team from it.

Prepping our gear for the 1000 ft, 10 pitches of amazingness
After a bit of route finding (Matt climbed a dirty crack that kind of matched the description of the route only to find it didn't go anywhere) we start up the 1000 ft face. Matt takes a single trad rack and jumps into the flaring granite crack. He climbs past the first belay, past an overhanging ledge and disappears from site. I wonder what he plans on making an anchor with and how far he's run out the climb with so few cams.

The first two pitches (that Matt climbed as one pitch) are the crux pitches of Astro Elephant. I decide, in my not-quite-awake brain, that I should wear my "comfy crack shoes" on the hardest sections of the climb.  Needless to say, I'm glad I was not leading.

The right leaning flaring crack constantly tried to spit me out. My right foot kept skating off the rock, the rubber on the loose shoe feeling useless. Lesson learned. At the anchor I switched to my aggressive slipper that performed incredibly (Until pitch 9 and 10 where I could barely feel my feet).

View of the Saddleback Lakes from Pitch 2
Keith North struggling through an awkward chimney/off width move on pitch 5
Since my trad fall in March 2013 where I broke my back I have been slowly getting my trad lead head back. I've spent a lot of time this summer leading "easy" trad leads and working on good placements. The week before the trip Matt and I went and climbed Peanuts, a stout, strange 5.9+ in Eldorado Canyon, my hardest lead since my fall.

When I got to the Pitch 6 anchor Matt says, "This next pitch would be a great one to shoot, but you have to lead it first!" 5.9+ 700 feet up...sure. It starts on a heady move from a huge hueco jug, out right to a right leaning flake. The flake accepted decent protection, but you reach the top and have to traverse 15 feet to the left with very little opportunity for protection before the crux, moving from the traverse rail out to a very exposed bulge. I clipped a tattered piece of tat (fixed webbing) and tried to back it up with a nut. My hands, now on positive jugs, were shaking uncontrollably. "YOU'RE FINE!" I yelled at myself.  I took a few deep breaths and pulled myself onto a small ledge.

Daniel followed me up and belayed me back down the route so I could shoot Matt on the section I had just climbed.


Matt making the exposed move out the bulge on Pitch 7 
 Matt runs pitch 7-8 and 9-10 together, making bold moves with very few cams for protection. I lead the rest of the pitches up to 10, glad that I stole some of Matt's cams.

As I belay Daniel up pitch 9 the sky opens up. In a full downpour Daniel and I simul climb the last pitch, following on Matt's rope. I was happy to not be leading with a river of water running down the 5.7 hand crack, fully filling the arms of my rain coat. At the top of the crack you have to pull an incredibly exposed roof, looking straight down over a 1000ft sheer drop. I scrambled up the last slab, hi five Matt and Keith, just in time for the downpour to let up.  I was very surprised how well my soaking wet climbing shoes stuck to the wet granite (I always imagined you'd just slip off).

We jump from rock to rock across the ridge, careful not to get too close to the 1000ft cliff on the right and a steep slab on the left. We finish the down climb and pack up our camp to head out.


The last boat across Redfish Lake leaves at 7pm daily. I got separated from the rest of the group and picked the wrong trail in the delta of trails leaving the Elephant Perch. It led me to fern covered cliffs lined by waterfalls. I could either go back up to the perch and try and find the right trail, or descend the cliffs and try to reach the river which would lead me to the trail. I picked going down the wet, tropical-esque cliffs and crossed the waterfalls trying not to injure myself in a place that being rescued, or found for that matter, would be very difficult.

I cross the river and reach the trail about 6:40pm. With my 40+lb pack I had 2 miles to cover in less than 20 minutes! I took off running as best I could with a huge pack on my back, only walking on the uphill sections. I hear a crackle on my radio, "SCOTT!" I had been trying to reach anyone on the radio the whole way down the mountain with no answer. I let them know I was close and would be there as soon as possible.

I run through the campground, past confused looking BoyScouts. "If you're trying to get to the boat, it just left," one of the leaders tells me. Dejected, I walk to the dock to find the guys waiting for me. "It's coming back for us, don't worry."

Tired, wet, and hungry we stop for dinner in Ketchum and get a hotel in Hailey. I'm pretty thankful for the hot tub.

We get a lazy start and drive to Logan, UT, enjoying a rest day with a viewing of Guardians of the Galaxy. Fantastic entertainment. To top off our rest day we camp at Crystal Hot Springs and enjoy the hot springs.

Clouds in southern Idaho

A squall outside of Logan, UT. 
Climbing in Northern UT
Just outside of Logan is a little known canyon with some spectacular limestone sport climbs. Matt warms up on a fun 11c "Pig in a Python" then Daniel and Keith climb "Nuclear Fingers" 12a right next to it.
Matt climbing "Pig in a Python" 11c

Daniel working "Nuclear Fingers" 12a


Keith on "Nuclear Fingers" 
After arguing about where to go next and driving in circles we found China Cave, a steep, Rifle-esque crag with several inspiring lines. Matt jumps on "Blank" 12 c/d and we all follow in succession.
Matt gives Daniel a gentle catch. 

Matt on his send of "Blank" 5.12b/c


The route is gymnastic and fun, but several of the holds are manufactured. 

Matt captured this shot of me on "Blank"
We arrived in Salt Lake City a few days after Summer Outdoor Retailer Trade Show had started and went straight to the Hippy Tree party to enjoy some beers and live bluegrass music. We stayed out too late and drove up Little Cottonwood Canyon to find a campsite in Albion Basin, which is in Alta Ski Resort. Not finding an open site we decide to just sleep in the 4Runner. 

After not sleeping for 5 hours we got up grumpy and headed uphill towards Devil's Castle. I almost got stepped on by a moose as I came around a bend near some residence's. The "Black Streak" goes seven pitches up the middle of Devil's Tower on a black streak of unique limestone. 

The climbing is very interesting and fun, and getting seven pitches on a sport route is alway worth your time. There's a 240ft runout in the middle protected by maybe four bolts that we simul climbed. The view from the top, overlooking Alta Resort and Little Cottonwood Canyon, is definitely worth the climb. 

Keith traversing to the rap anchors from the peak with Alta Ski Resort in the background

Daniel raps off "Black Streak" 
The rap descent was the scariest part of the climb. There are lots of loose rocks and every time you pull the rope you get showered with more rocks.

We spend a couple more days at the Outdoor Retailer show and Matt, Daniel, and Keith take off for Denver, stopping in Maple Canyon and Carbondale on the way home. I, not sick of traveling yet, get in a rattly Ford Explorer and head back to Idaho with BASE Jumper, Sarah Watson, for more shenanigans.

Despite getting turned away at the Canadian border, not getting to attempt our original objective, we had a pretty amazing climbing trip. Psyched to have gotten to climb in so many new-to-me climbing areas with stellar routes.


It's quite amazing that after driving through 5 states, climbing in 5 new areas (7 for the other guys), traveling for 10 days, with roughly 40 hours of driving, and covering 2,400 miles, 4 guys in a 4Runnder, we didn't kill each other.