In December, Genevive was guiding for a climbing retreat in Puerto Rico, so we took some time to explore the island before she had to work. I’ll admit, Puerto Rico hadn’t really been on my radar, but it absolutely should be on yours. Beyond the ease of travel—no passport and a quick flight from the mainland—the island offers a visual rhythm that is incredibly grounding.
As a former commercial photographer now working in UX, my relationship with the lens has shifted. I used to hunt for the “loud” moments—the peak action and the dramatic narrative. But on this trip, I found myself captivated by the quieter moments of the island: the geometry of Old San Juan, the architecture, and waterfalls in the rainforest.
Click into the images to see in a gallery, then stick around afterward to read about our journey from the limestone cliffs of Ciales to the bioluminscent waters of Vieques.
After exploring the colorful, geometric streets of Old San Juan and dancing at La Factoria, we headed east to Punta Vacia Talega. While Genevive bouldered on the jagged coastal rocks, I spent my time on long exposures of waves crashing against the shore.
Our main objective, however, was climbing in Ciales at The Flying Coconut. The owner, Eli, has done an incredible job developing this limestone horseshoe. I see so much potential for this to become an international destination with just a bit more local buy-in and more development. There is SO MUCH ROCK!
We stayed about 30 minutes away, at La Boca. It became my favorite beach on the island—the contrast of the black sand against the froth of the crashing surf that I only experienced under the moonlight. I still regret not seeing it in the daylight, but we made up for it by exploring the protected coves to the west, like Playa Caracoles, where the massive Cristóbal Colón monument looms strangely in the background.
Rincón
From there, we hit the west coast. I’ve surfed a few spots—Oregon, Sayulita, and North Carolina—and I’ll be the first to admit I’m not very good. Domes Beach in Rincón was easily the scariest place I’ve paddled out. Dodging sharp black rocks in the surf zone seemed pretty high-stakes. I had a bit more luck at the sandier Don Antonio’s playa, though surfing alone there was its own kind of nerve-wracking.
The highlight of Rincón was seeing my friend Nick and catching a show at Rincón Beer Co. for their anniversary. They had a DJ who had worked with Bad Bunny, and the energy was incredible. Before leaving the west, we hit Surfer’s Beach/Survival Beach for some beachside climbing. It was hot, sweaty, and wet, but the holds were big and the movement was great.
Vieques
The final leg was a lesson in logistics. We drove across the north coast to Ceiba for a 4:30 AM ferry. Pro-tip: buy your tickets to Vieques in advance. They sell out, and we ended up sleeping on a park bench near the port until the sun came up.
Once we secured a car (thanks to a kind local in a pickup who gave us a lift), we explored the island. We saw the ancient Ceiba tree and the wild horses, but the real magic happened that night. As we arrived for our kayak tour, the entire crowd was staring at the sky. I saw what looked like a giant blue jellyfish—my brain went straight to “alien invasion”—before realizing it was a SpaceX rocket carrying Starlink satellites into orbit.
Seeing that high-tech streak across the sky, followed immediately by a kayak tour through the Bioluminescent Bay, was otherworldly. Running your hands through the water feels like being in Avatar. At high speeds, the creatures light up against the hull; at slower speeds, it looks like a scene from Star Wars.
El Yunque
On our way back to San Juan, we stopped in El Yunque. I spent the afternoon capturing the waterfalls and the intricate textures of the rainforest, likely annoying Genevive with how often I stopped to pull out the camera.
Puerto Rico is a masterclass in contrast—the sharp limestone, the black sands, and the glowing water. I came home recharged, while Genevive stayed on for another week to guide. It was the perfect reminder of why it’s still worth slowing down to look through the viewfinder.